Friday, 7 December 2007

Elephants and boats down stream...Is this a dream?




We got up at 6.30am. Our bags had been packed the night before but tension is always high on travelling days. We headed out for breakfast at 8, returning at 10 when we found the taxi waiting. The driver said $10 when we asked him how much. I waved the Cambodian guide, 'Out and About in Cambodia" and pointed to the bit that said that the taxi was about $5 stating that the airport was only 6km. He looked chastised and said, "Okay, $5." We set off up the narrow passageway nearly taking someones washing with us! Someone came and moved the rail over. We gave the driver $6 and thanked him.




The airport was small and expensive but we were processed quickly. There was a cheeky tax of $25 for all people leaving Cambodia, so Lee asked where it went. "To the Government," The official replied. Lee suggested that it should be given to help the poor children. She laughed nervously but he repeated it as we walked away. It was a short flight to Laos.




There was a mist over the mountains as we disembarked and I noticed that ours was the only plane on the runway! We had to have our photographs scanned for our visa which cost us $1


plus $36. We joined the second queue. Just as we were about to collect our visas the Dutch boys in front of us, Gaye and Roland, realised that they did not have enough cash in dollars. They asked us to help. After a moments deliberation we gave them $42 and we set out as a group of four to the town and the ATM. Our transport was an open pick-up truck with seats along each side and a metal cage over the top. We threw our bags in and clambered aboard. The journey was short, the countryside amazingly attractive and the main street delightfully charming. What a pleasant surprise: no dust tracks or rubbish, no tin hunts just villas, pavements and signs in English. This was a town in Laos, called Luang Prabang.


The lads gave us our money in Kip and we all set off to find somewhere to say. We turned down a picturesque street full of villas, flowers heading for the river. We booked into a guesthouse but moved further down the street the next day. We sat by the river and had a sumptuous meal of the local stew and four Lao beer each.




We were woken the next morning at about 8 by the chatter of young girls voices all around us and the occasional clatter of a mop bucket. The curtains were see through, the shower was cold. Hence the move.


The new guesthouse was $15 but promised hot water and some privacy and quiet. It was clean and bright too. We set out happily for breakfast. The buildings are exquisite and, despite the fact that we were told that Laos was less developed than either Vietnam or Cambodia, we have not found this to be the case. It seems far more civilised and clean. There is less hassle and has more moderate weather. There is a great deal of French influence here, shown in the colonial buildings, the brick villas, the fluffy poodles and french bread.

We took a stroll in the sunshine and came across the American guy dressed in blue overalls that I had noticed at the airport. He asked us where we had got our money back and was reassured when we said yes. We took photographs of the vegetation which was full of patterns, and the men building a bridge using thin wooden supports. Amazing but effective, nevertheless. We booked a trip to a nearby waterfall that was leaving in half an hour. It was only $4, 2 pounds each, and for this we would get an hours ride through the countryside, 2hrs at the waterfall and the return journey! We rushed off to get my swimming costume and sat on the steps of our guest house in the sunshine to wait for our transportation.


Soon we were hurtling happily around bends and through villages. We had several close encounters with yet more chickens crossing the road, (why?), a cockerel nearly met his demise, we slowed down but so did he, I really did not think that he had escaped our wheels until I opened my eyes and heard an indignant squawk as we hurtled away. The houses were often on stilts or stone villas set among exotic flowers. We came to a halt in a large car-park with its own market. The driver pointed to the way in. We walked for five minutes through the greenery and came across a bear rescue centre. There were about 6 of these small brown bears lazing or wrestling in a compound. There was natural jungle shade and they looked quite relaxed. In a nearby compound was a tiger who had also been reclaimed from poachers . I bought a tee-shirt for my daughter.

The waterfall had several turquoise pools to swim in, which I did. We walked up to the top and the scenery was beautiful, a real feast for the eyes. As we strolled back to the market for an ice cold drink the huge tropical flowers were superb. A Christmas plant with red leaves grows as a bush out here. This was the best day so far. As we were dropped off the night market was being set out on the road in a blaze of lights and colour. Perfect!

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