Gecko's on my ceiling

It is twelve days now since we flew to the magical Eden that is Phu Coc. I glimpsed the sparkling line if headlights along both sides of the runway as our little p[lane lifted suddenly into the air above Saigon. I was so glad to be leaving the city behind as I had felt quite cheated by the rain that prevented me from staying on the mid-Vietnam coast.

Regarding the floodwater:I've since heard that cases of cholera have broken out in Hoi An, as the rains have continued. There did not seem to be any concept of the dangers of floodwater as we watched the people clean up when the water had receded by twometers, and was just, at this point, in the roadway itself. I had already mentioned the people wading in the water; we were horrified because it had to contain sewerage!!! As they cleared up they were swilling things with the floodwater in the street, and some people went to the water's edge to wash their hands!! The pub staff, across the road, where we had had a game of snooker were washing all sorts of table things in it!!! People were also throwing their rubbish into it. In Hue, further up the coast, a crocodile farm had got flooded and the animals had escaped, so the locals were wadingin water with crocodiles init, until theyfound out!!!

Our arrival in Phu Coc, one hour after take-off from Saigon, was a little ominous as it went dark and began to rain. I thought, Oh no. Not again, but within 30 minutes the rain had stopped, and a bright, warm sun had appeared, and that is how it stayed most of the time.

We hadno idea where we were going to stay but there were a number of people there to offer suggestions. We were picked up by the gloriously camp, Llin. He grinned widely, crinkling his nose in amost captivating way. He said,"Come and have a look. If you do not like it you do not have to dtay." Sowe did, and stayed 10 days.

The journey to the hotel Kim Hoa consisted of Lee and My self in an air-conditioned mini-bus. I was a bit concerned that there were not others, but we could always leave if we did not like it. We need not have worried. Lin sped off on a bike with his well manicured nails firmly gripping a friend. We satbackand relaxed.

We drove through the familiar lush green countryside that we associate with Vietnam. There were many tin and straw hut, little shops and businesses along the way. As we pulled down a red, dusty lane we entered the Kim Hoa compound. There was a well cultivated tropical garden with charming paths weaving their way through the grounds and pots and half coconut shells, planted with all manner of things, strung on a wire. It was glorious,and abundant.

I noticed the sound of waves and gazed in wonder as I surveyed a sparkling blue pool with no-one around it and went down the steps to the golden, palm fringed beach that stretched as far as my eye could see, in both directions. There were simple wooden beds and a few straw beach huts. Crystal water lapped this perfect shoreline. The staff smiled wonderfully. I wondered where all the people were. We were told that it was very early in the season so they were only about 1/3 full. We booked a couple of nights in the apartment block away from themain building, where it was shaded and undisturbed. We spoke to a German couple who had travelled in Asia extensively. They had stayed for four months in recent years stating that this was by far the best island they knew of. They directed us to the small town that was about a 15minute walk away. We unpacked sent all our clothes, including the flood coat, to be hand washed and set out for town. It all seemed too perfect to be true.

The town was small but had all that we required except fruit. Lee had spotted a nice teeshirt hanging up and was about to ask the price when he realised that it was somebody's washing that had been hung up on the fence to dry!Then we discovered the market. We walked to the left, just following our instincts and crossed the river. There was a fascinating shanty-town of blue and red painted boats, planks and fishing nets teeming with life. Set against the verdant green of a mountains foliage this created a glorious riot of action and colour. Lee was walking ahead in search of the mandarin oranges, that are so fresh and juicy out here, I suddenly noticed the darkness of the sky. Lee had just begun choosing some when the heavans opened. We were pulled behind the counter and ordered to sit on an up-turned bucket until the rain stopped 15minutes later, and we continued our journey, complete with our oranges still on the branch! The internet cafe was thenoisiest that we have been in as it was full of childen playing gamesa! Occassionally one would drift over and look quizzically at the English on the screen. They love to try their, "Hello's!" out on you, and are delighted when you reply.

Lee walked in most days, returning with a fabulous Addidas teehirt one day, that cost him all of 70 dong, the equivalent of two pounds, fifty. I sat by the pool, on my own, writing or reading. He always returned as I ordered my fried rice and a papaya shake! We found a french owned beach bar, a german brockworst bar and an Aussie barbecue bar, where you chose your fish from that days purchase, and they cooked it for you.

The one problem was the faltering English, especially at our hotel and the Aussie bar. I cameback from the loo one day to find Lee surrounded by plates containing four fried eggs, four bagettes and twohalf pint mugs of tea. We lost something in translation, I think! Getting tea without sugar was hard because they tended to use condensed milk.

Half way through our stay we decide to get a motorbike each and go to the other side of the island to view the white beach in the south-east but that is another story!