At the campsite there are hordes of shaggy-haired, mud spattered Aussie guys in shorts, with cowboy hats on talking engines or tactics. There are bikes and trucks everywhere. It is Monday 9th of June and it is the tail end of the gruelling 'Finke Desert Race'. These men have all taken part or watched. It involves one days dash across the old road and one days return, about 500kms in all. It is all dust and distance. That explained why the camp was so full! Dutiful wives were lined up in the laundry trying to clean the dust, grease and oil off their men's clothing. It was a friendly site and I fell asleep to the sound of a Didgeredoo Concert.
Alice town is rather dull, just a series of shopping malls with oddments of history to look at. We took some time to find 'The Flying Doctor Service' then went to see the museum of Pioneer Women in the old gaol. Aboriginal people wandered around the town. It was 28 degrees in the day but only about 10 degrees at night, which surprised me. We were hot and uncomfortable. We headed out the next day to Ayers Rock, not noticing that someone had pinched my half sized bucket that we had purchased in Estonia!
Ayers lay about 250kms from Alice, which surprised me. We passed several roadhouses, among them Aileron, with its giant, 'aboriginal man on the mountain', outside. A flat topped mountain caught my eye as we got closer. Like Ayers it stood out from its flat surroundings. Ayers loomed on the horizon when we got closer to the camp. I felt very excited and we went off to set up before we headed out to view Ayers at sunset.
The camp was at Yulara, 22kms away from the rock, which surprised me. It was not even situated in the national park! It was a whole community purpose built to service visitors to Ayers. It had shops, hotels and a campsite. There was even a bus to transport you. We booked a dusty site and set ourselves up. As expected, the dust was bright red and everywhere. We headed out in the dusk to view the rock. I felt like a pilgrim on the road with others. We parked up and waited. Some people had wine and cheese on their tables. We waiting in hopeful expectation but the cloud remained and the people moved away. We drove, in the deepening dark, around the base. It was huge and instilled a kind of awe. Each side seemed to look completely different. Back at camp we set the alarm for 6am.
We woke in total darkness. As we dressed I noticed a rip in the dark sky and began to get anxious that dawn would come and we would miss the sunrise. I was not to be disappointed. In the eerie pre-dawn light other vans were moving along the road. We followed. We pulled up in a vacant space and watched, with rising excitement as the sky gradually grew lighter. There was some cloud but,we were to be lucky this time, as the sun shone through a gap Ayers lit up and changed colour so many times, from yellow sandstone to bright fiery red. It was glorious, and well worth getting up early for.
Before we left, when the tour buses had gone, we circled the rock once more. It was amazing and humbling. As we drove away I noticed, the sister rocks, 'The Olgas', glowing quietly in the morning sun. I took my photographs and we headed out to repeat the long journey up to Three Ways again and on to Darwin.
Tuesday, 24 June 2008
From Mount Isa to Tennants Creek
I am really confused because two pages dropped out of my book and this may be slightly out of order. This is one of the loose pages and covers the journey after we left Mount Isa and headed for Camooweal.
It is Sunday morning, 8th June. We headed out of Mount Isa for the fourth time. Francine and Francoise are off on the mine tour and then heading for Cloncurry. (They are a crazy pair of 70 year olds from Adelaide, but Paris and Brittany originally. She is an outrageous flirt but quite funny too. How he copes, I do not know but he obviously likes being kept on his toes.) We, on the other hand are powering up the Barkly Highway to Camooweal then on to Tennants Creek. As it is the 'long weekend' to celebrate the Queen's birthday! We don't even do that in England! There seem to be only caravans on the road and, as it is open, that is not a problem. Spinifex and red soil are the order of the day. The sky is light grey and it is raining. I am pleased because the red dust is every where. I pondered on last night's karoke, which we swore we would not go to. We sang our socks off and waved the neon strips that Francoise got from his caravan. They are still glowing. The road warning said,'Beware: stock on the road, Flooding and Trucks over 50 mtrs long!
It is 470 to Tennants Creek,1464 to Darwin and 450 to 3 Ways. We have 360 degrees view of grass and scrubland. The rain has stopped and we have passed two road-trains already. The kangaroos that have died in the night are scattwered around like skittles. There is even a cow carcass, evidence of earlier road-kill!There is a camel thoughfully chewing in the field alongside the road. The sky/land ratio is 60/40 and there is nothing to see but low grass. We turn onto 'The Overlanders Way'. It is like driving on a perspective sketch. Barkly Homestead is 242km-a two hour drive for us. Another cow has met his maker. To break the monotony we have a beastie feast of crisps followed by a few squares of chocolate. A long line of cows move along the field fence and a happy waving motorcyclist passes by. The road sign now declares that the road-trains are in fact 53.5 meters long. You need a lot of space for overtaking. We pass 'Shakespeare Creek'.
(Pictures to include=the Camooweal kangaroo and road distances,the view through the window.
At Barkly Homestead the petrol is $205 per litre. Should be 139!!!!!More surprises, half hour time difference. God!!How many flies??? I put my net over my hat so that I do not feel silly!! I gulp my food in order not to eat a fly too. Yuk. I find this totally exasperating. I am not relaxed eating like this and it is very strange to have to head for your neck, to get under the elasticated net, instead of your mouth. I sprayed myself with, 'Bushman' fly deterrant and bounced my flip-flop at a local harrassing bird. Suddenly, loud,awful country music came from one of the box-like cabins. We decided to move on to Tennants Creek.
When we booked into Tennants Creek campsite for the night I noticed the posters showing local snakes! Nice! After 750 kms I do not want to run into them! I am glad that it is only 506kms to Alice Springs. In the camp shop Lee shows me 'Canned Kookaburra' and 'Tinned Echidna'. I am disgusted until I realise that it is a joke!
In the morning we disagree about how to make omelettes. We rarely argue so we must be getting tired. It certainly is a long haul. We are also aware that we have to repeat this leg of the journey when we return north, to Darwin. There is a nice moment when we pull up to the drive to leave. I noticed an Aboriginal man step ou t but when he saw us he jumped back. We calmly waited for him to cross as he got there first. He peered at us and we motioned for him to cross and smiled. He looked incredulous. As we pulled out he gave us a respectful wave and beaming smile. We waved back. We stopped at the huge round boulders, ten feet high, that lay scattered around, called 'The Devil's Marbles. They are strange because they lie on flat land. As we rejoin the main highway and head off to Alice Springs I notice another dead cow lying on the highway. The sky is heavy with cloud and the persistant flies buzz in my ears. Passing van drivers give funny waves and there are flocks of very tiny birds darting around. I still have not seen budgerigars in the wild though. It is 29kms to Alice and a road sign declares that we are in a restricted alcohol zone. We cross southward back over the Tropic of Capricorn.
It is Sunday morning, 8th June. We headed out of Mount Isa for the fourth time. Francine and Francoise are off on the mine tour and then heading for Cloncurry. (They are a crazy pair of 70 year olds from Adelaide, but Paris and Brittany originally. She is an outrageous flirt but quite funny too. How he copes, I do not know but he obviously likes being kept on his toes.) We, on the other hand are powering up the Barkly Highway to Camooweal then on to Tennants Creek. As it is the 'long weekend' to celebrate the Queen's birthday! We don't even do that in England! There seem to be only caravans on the road and, as it is open, that is not a problem. Spinifex and red soil are the order of the day. The sky is light grey and it is raining. I am pleased because the red dust is every where. I pondered on last night's karoke, which we swore we would not go to. We sang our socks off and waved the neon strips that Francoise got from his caravan. They are still glowing. The road warning said,'Beware: stock on the road, Flooding and Trucks over 50 mtrs long!
It is 470 to Tennants Creek,1464 to Darwin and 450 to 3 Ways. We have 360 degrees view of grass and scrubland. The rain has stopped and we have passed two road-trains already. The kangaroos that have died in the night are scattwered around like skittles. There is even a cow carcass, evidence of earlier road-kill!There is a camel thoughfully chewing in the field alongside the road. The sky/land ratio is 60/40 and there is nothing to see but low grass. We turn onto 'The Overlanders Way'. It is like driving on a perspective sketch. Barkly Homestead is 242km-a two hour drive for us. Another cow has met his maker. To break the monotony we have a beastie feast of crisps followed by a few squares of chocolate. A long line of cows move along the field fence and a happy waving motorcyclist passes by. The road sign now declares that the road-trains are in fact 53.5 meters long. You need a lot of space for overtaking. We pass 'Shakespeare Creek'.
(Pictures to include=the Camooweal kangaroo and road distances,the view through the window.
At Barkly Homestead the petrol is $205 per litre. Should be 139!!!!!More surprises, half hour time difference. God!!How many flies??? I put my net over my hat so that I do not feel silly!! I gulp my food in order not to eat a fly too. Yuk. I find this totally exasperating. I am not relaxed eating like this and it is very strange to have to head for your neck, to get under the elasticated net, instead of your mouth. I sprayed myself with, 'Bushman' fly deterrant and bounced my flip-flop at a local harrassing bird. Suddenly, loud,awful country music came from one of the box-like cabins. We decided to move on to Tennants Creek.
When we booked into Tennants Creek campsite for the night I noticed the posters showing local snakes! Nice! After 750 kms I do not want to run into them! I am glad that it is only 506kms to Alice Springs. In the camp shop Lee shows me 'Canned Kookaburra' and 'Tinned Echidna'. I am disgusted until I realise that it is a joke!
In the morning we disagree about how to make omelettes. We rarely argue so we must be getting tired. It certainly is a long haul. We are also aware that we have to repeat this leg of the journey when we return north, to Darwin. There is a nice moment when we pull up to the drive to leave. I noticed an Aboriginal man step ou t but when he saw us he jumped back. We calmly waited for him to cross as he got there first. He peered at us and we motioned for him to cross and smiled. He looked incredulous. As we pulled out he gave us a respectful wave and beaming smile. We waved back. We stopped at the huge round boulders, ten feet high, that lay scattered around, called 'The Devil's Marbles. They are strange because they lie on flat land. As we rejoin the main highway and head off to Alice Springs I notice another dead cow lying on the highway. The sky is heavy with cloud and the persistant flies buzz in my ears. Passing van drivers give funny waves and there are flocks of very tiny birds darting around. I still have not seen budgerigars in the wild though. It is 29kms to Alice and a road sign declares that we are in a restricted alcohol zone. We cross southward back over the Tropic of Capricorn.
Thursday, 19 June 2008
Across Queensland and into The Northern Territory-Sunday 1st-9th June
It is time to leave the east coast and head south-west,to Mareeba, over the Great Dividing Range. As we drove up into the mountains the scenery was fabulous and sweeping as it changed to the healthy green of English pastoral. This was the Atherton Tablelands. The blue sky was, unusually, streaked with white cloud. It reminded me of the start of, 'The Simpsons' and made me smile. However,the next sign said, 'Abbatoir Swamp'! Blimey, talk about a reality check! The sun came out again. This morning had a damp feel to it but this was better. The breeze was still cool.
The Malloy camp area reminded me of Cannock Chase. It was being well used and someone was collecting wood. We have not stayed in any of the free camp areas only on sites because of the need for shower and power facilities. There was a little 'town' within walking distance-a pub serving meals and a few houses.There was also a sign for unfenced animals. I would not fancy negotiating his way around a cow in the middle of the night!
As we travelled on I noticed the rocky formations of yellow termite mounds everywhere. The marshlands, beyond this, supported prolific bird life. Many Australian birds seem to be pied in colour.
Approaching Mareeba, the first thing we saw was 'The Golden Drop Winery', based on mangoes. This was also sugar-cane country, and it was almost cutting season when all the train tracks would be in use. The second thing we saw was, 'The Kingdom Hall' Jehovah's Witness church, which had a lot of cars outside it, and the third was MacDonalds, which only had had only a few! We passed through the town and continued on our way. It was too soon to stop so we headed out to Mount Garnet.
The 'Brahman Stud' just outside the town reminded us that this was cattle droving land and the start of the huge cattle stations along, 'The Savannah Way,' that stretches from Cairns, in the east, to Broome, in the west. It is usual to see wacky things along the way too. It is part of the Aussie psyche. A washing machine on a stick, at the end of a road, was someones post box! There is a trend for large 'statues' or models of things too. We have already had a lobster, banana, shrimp and mango. This time it was a giant gumboot with a gecko clambering up it, outside the Information Centre. Another shop had a giant model of a Cassowary outside it. A huge wind farm whirred up on the hill and it reminded me of England until a gash of rust-red soil told me otherwise.
The camp site was a bit empty so we parked virtually in the kitchen! There were shabby live-in plots at the back, still, it was only for one night. There was a fridge-freezer, benches, a kettle and a sink with hot water. The television had poor reception but we watched an interesting programme on Australian history whilst we prepared spagetti bolognese. I had a couple of cold beers and set the van up for the night. We rang England from here as the telephone worked, in a fashion! The operator had to connect us as the buttons were not registering.
The next day we headed out on a road that was, at times, just a wide gash of red sand and gravel with a single lane of tar in the middle. The rule is that you drive on it until another vehicle approaches, then you have half each, unless it is a road-train, in which case you pull over and wait for it to pass! Initially we were stuck behind a two carriage, milk-tanker road train, travelling at 80kms. We overtook it and travelled on, however, when we got to the next narrow strip of a tarmac a passing road-train spun a couple of stones up and hit the windscreen, cracking it! I was shocked but Lee said that it would be okay, if it stayed like that. There was a four inch crack on the bottom of my side of the windscreen. I looked at the map and noticed the town on the gulf called Karumba, not the Simpsons again! In the next town we drove into the automatic vehicle wash down, as we were covered in bright red dust, only to find out that it was out of water! We headed off again. The next town was Bedrock. Wasn't that in the Flintstones??? Two more stones hit the screen, only chipping it this time. I held my breath every time a road train passed us. I only breathed out when the dust cleared. It was hard going! The Brahman cows chewed quietly near the termite mounds that rose like huge gravestones among the endless grasslands on either side of us. A sign warned us to 'Avoid bulls and roadtrains'! I wished we could! Eagles and kites circled overhead. I would only worry if they turned into vultures! We ploughed on. When we encountered another vehicle it became impossible to see anything on the road because of the amount of dust that was being kicked up. Qwerky Oz reared its head again with the local garage model of a huge kangaroo wearing shorts and carrying a spanner!
As we approached Georgetown we noticed a small cat in the middle of nowhere. It seemed to know where it was going and disappeared into the long grass. I heard later that ferel cats are killing local wildlife, such as the Bilby, to the point of extinction! The sky was full of wheeling kites, about 30 of them. We had stopped outside the post office to post some letters then we had an ice-cold beer. We got talking to a couple from Victoria, with a dog called Ned. They said that they might see us at the camp site. As we arrived a lady booked us in and just said,"Choose your spot." We did, near the ammenities block, as usual! Nearby a man lay sleeping on the ground where he had thrown his lorry tarpaulin and sleeping bag! We unloaded our two chairs a table and two beers, very quietly. A couple of young men arrived with a van so crammed with stuff that it looked like Rubric's Cube to undo it, and they looked as though they could survive a fair amount of time in the desert! It took them an age to pitch two tents. I don't think that they could find anything! I put some washing on the line and chatted to an elderly couple, from the Atherton Tablelands, who were taking a look at the outback. He had been a truckkie for many years and never seen it. I don't know how he managed to avoid it! Ned's owners arrived after we had set up and asked us if we wanted to go with them to the local pub. Lee went for a game of pool. I did not feel sociable so I stayed in the van and read. As the sun set a whole flock of white parrots, called Corellas, set up a squawking as they swooped from tree to tree then roosted for the night. I took some pictures of them. Lee had a good night and made a few more friends.
On Tuesday 3rd June we were on the road for 9am, a first. We hoped that we could settle before the sun got too overwhelming. There was a good road,and cool air. We felt refreshed and full of hope for the day ahead. The kites were circling spoilt for choice after the night's roadkill! We avoided a wandering cow. By afternoon the air was hot, our joints had grown stiff. We had seen wallabies at 10 in the morning and a group of storks flew gracefully overhead sometime later. Apart from that it was 360 degree views of grassland. The single tarmac road was back, as was the mounting tension about the windscreen. We reached the Burke and Wills roadhouse and took a break. Everything was very expensive so we made sandwiches up out on the drive. (See the pictures of Lee making sandwiches and the sign.)Refreshed we moved on.
There was so little around us the thought about what we would do if we broke downhere was a scary one. I felt tense for quite a while. There were endless termite tombstones, the odd cow and shredded tyres everywhere. We even saw a cyclist!! Tough call that one! 'Dismal Creek' did nothing to lift the mood. We ploughed on for the Three Ways Roadhouse. Ah the joy of being on the road! It said in the Lonely Planet Guide that crocs have been run over on northern roads! As if there are not enough hazards already! I saw my first camel the other day. Fortunately it was not in the road but quietly munching grass on the side. I peered at the termite mounds. They are certainly getting a lot more creative-there are huge phallic constructions or, six-foot heaps that resemble 'Sideshow Bob's' hair.
A sign warns of unfenced land. It warns you about wandering stock. I could not be a truck driver. They run into all sorts of animals when driving. Cows are not exactly small! I would swerve to avoid one and probably kill five innocently munching wallabies in the nearby grasslands! One anthill has just resembled that rock in America with the presidents faces carved on to it! The flies seem clever too because there are plenty of them around but they do not seem to get splatted on the windscreen! Why? I hate all the insects and always check under toilet seats for the old redbacked spider! There was a report in the local paper the other day that told the story of the lady who lived on the 12th floor of some flats in town and, when she went to the bathroom she was confronted by a python coming out of the toilet! Apparently, he had come into the plumbing system and decided to come out on her floor!!!I have got used to sharing my shower with a frog but I would draw the line at that!
The Malloy camp area reminded me of Cannock Chase. It was being well used and someone was collecting wood. We have not stayed in any of the free camp areas only on sites because of the need for shower and power facilities. There was a little 'town' within walking distance-a pub serving meals and a few houses.There was also a sign for unfenced animals. I would not fancy negotiating his way around a cow in the middle of the night!
As we travelled on I noticed the rocky formations of yellow termite mounds everywhere. The marshlands, beyond this, supported prolific bird life. Many Australian birds seem to be pied in colour.
Approaching Mareeba, the first thing we saw was 'The Golden Drop Winery', based on mangoes. This was also sugar-cane country, and it was almost cutting season when all the train tracks would be in use. The second thing we saw was, 'The Kingdom Hall' Jehovah's Witness church, which had a lot of cars outside it, and the third was MacDonalds, which only had had only a few! We passed through the town and continued on our way. It was too soon to stop so we headed out to Mount Garnet.
The 'Brahman Stud' just outside the town reminded us that this was cattle droving land and the start of the huge cattle stations along, 'The Savannah Way,' that stretches from Cairns, in the east, to Broome, in the west. It is usual to see wacky things along the way too. It is part of the Aussie psyche. A washing machine on a stick, at the end of a road, was someones post box! There is a trend for large 'statues' or models of things too. We have already had a lobster, banana, shrimp and mango. This time it was a giant gumboot with a gecko clambering up it, outside the Information Centre. Another shop had a giant model of a Cassowary outside it. A huge wind farm whirred up on the hill and it reminded me of England until a gash of rust-red soil told me otherwise.
The camp site was a bit empty so we parked virtually in the kitchen! There were shabby live-in plots at the back, still, it was only for one night. There was a fridge-freezer, benches, a kettle and a sink with hot water. The television had poor reception but we watched an interesting programme on Australian history whilst we prepared spagetti bolognese. I had a couple of cold beers and set the van up for the night. We rang England from here as the telephone worked, in a fashion! The operator had to connect us as the buttons were not registering.
The next day we headed out on a road that was, at times, just a wide gash of red sand and gravel with a single lane of tar in the middle. The rule is that you drive on it until another vehicle approaches, then you have half each, unless it is a road-train, in which case you pull over and wait for it to pass! Initially we were stuck behind a two carriage, milk-tanker road train, travelling at 80kms. We overtook it and travelled on, however, when we got to the next narrow strip of a tarmac a passing road-train spun a couple of stones up and hit the windscreen, cracking it! I was shocked but Lee said that it would be okay, if it stayed like that. There was a four inch crack on the bottom of my side of the windscreen. I looked at the map and noticed the town on the gulf called Karumba, not the Simpsons again! In the next town we drove into the automatic vehicle wash down, as we were covered in bright red dust, only to find out that it was out of water! We headed off again. The next town was Bedrock. Wasn't that in the Flintstones??? Two more stones hit the screen, only chipping it this time. I held my breath every time a road train passed us. I only breathed out when the dust cleared. It was hard going! The Brahman cows chewed quietly near the termite mounds that rose like huge gravestones among the endless grasslands on either side of us. A sign warned us to 'Avoid bulls and roadtrains'! I wished we could! Eagles and kites circled overhead. I would only worry if they turned into vultures! We ploughed on. When we encountered another vehicle it became impossible to see anything on the road because of the amount of dust that was being kicked up. Qwerky Oz reared its head again with the local garage model of a huge kangaroo wearing shorts and carrying a spanner!
As we approached Georgetown we noticed a small cat in the middle of nowhere. It seemed to know where it was going and disappeared into the long grass. I heard later that ferel cats are killing local wildlife, such as the Bilby, to the point of extinction! The sky was full of wheeling kites, about 30 of them. We had stopped outside the post office to post some letters then we had an ice-cold beer. We got talking to a couple from Victoria, with a dog called Ned. They said that they might see us at the camp site. As we arrived a lady booked us in and just said,"Choose your spot." We did, near the ammenities block, as usual! Nearby a man lay sleeping on the ground where he had thrown his lorry tarpaulin and sleeping bag! We unloaded our two chairs a table and two beers, very quietly. A couple of young men arrived with a van so crammed with stuff that it looked like Rubric's Cube to undo it, and they looked as though they could survive a fair amount of time in the desert! It took them an age to pitch two tents. I don't think that they could find anything! I put some washing on the line and chatted to an elderly couple, from the Atherton Tablelands, who were taking a look at the outback. He had been a truckkie for many years and never seen it. I don't know how he managed to avoid it! Ned's owners arrived after we had set up and asked us if we wanted to go with them to the local pub. Lee went for a game of pool. I did not feel sociable so I stayed in the van and read. As the sun set a whole flock of white parrots, called Corellas, set up a squawking as they swooped from tree to tree then roosted for the night. I took some pictures of them. Lee had a good night and made a few more friends.
On Tuesday 3rd June we were on the road for 9am, a first. We hoped that we could settle before the sun got too overwhelming. There was a good road,and cool air. We felt refreshed and full of hope for the day ahead. The kites were circling spoilt for choice after the night's roadkill! We avoided a wandering cow. By afternoon the air was hot, our joints had grown stiff. We had seen wallabies at 10 in the morning and a group of storks flew gracefully overhead sometime later. Apart from that it was 360 degree views of grassland. The single tarmac road was back, as was the mounting tension about the windscreen. We reached the Burke and Wills roadhouse and took a break. Everything was very expensive so we made sandwiches up out on the drive. (See the pictures of Lee making sandwiches and the sign.)Refreshed we moved on.
There was so little around us the thought about what we would do if we broke downhere was a scary one. I felt tense for quite a while. There were endless termite tombstones, the odd cow and shredded tyres everywhere. We even saw a cyclist!! Tough call that one! 'Dismal Creek' did nothing to lift the mood. We ploughed on for the Three Ways Roadhouse. Ah the joy of being on the road! It said in the Lonely Planet Guide that crocs have been run over on northern roads! As if there are not enough hazards already! I saw my first camel the other day. Fortunately it was not in the road but quietly munching grass on the side. I peered at the termite mounds. They are certainly getting a lot more creative-there are huge phallic constructions or, six-foot heaps that resemble 'Sideshow Bob's' hair.
A sign warns of unfenced land. It warns you about wandering stock. I could not be a truck driver. They run into all sorts of animals when driving. Cows are not exactly small! I would swerve to avoid one and probably kill five innocently munching wallabies in the nearby grasslands! One anthill has just resembled that rock in America with the presidents faces carved on to it! The flies seem clever too because there are plenty of them around but they do not seem to get splatted on the windscreen! Why? I hate all the insects and always check under toilet seats for the old redbacked spider! There was a report in the local paper the other day that told the story of the lady who lived on the 12th floor of some flats in town and, when she went to the bathroom she was confronted by a python coming out of the toilet! Apparently, he had come into the plumbing system and decided to come out on her floor!!!I have got used to sharing my shower with a frog but I would draw the line at that!
From Bowen to Mission Beach and Port Douglas
We found a little shabby camp site just off the highway north where there was an in-house possum. It appeared at night as did two younger possums scampering up a tree branch, in front of us on the beach, as we were talking to two young Australian boys who were checking out the mines for work. It was a delightful find. The owner fed them apparently. He also fed the local rainbow lorikeets at about 8.30 in the morning. They made a fabulous blast of colour as they blocked overhead.The wildlife is abundant and exciting when you manage to see it, although I did not much appreciate the dead cane toad in the cigarette tray outside the ladies toilets, or the dead cockroach on the path nearby.
On Wednesday 28th May we we relieved to be leaving Bowen. This was a dead town with wide streets and few people. We had done our blogs in the library and then asked for a tourist map. It turned out that this town had been used by Baz Lerhman to film 'Old Darwin' for his epic, 'Australia" film. It was one of the oldest towns and the film-makers had simply covered the streets in red dust. I hope to recognise the pub when the film comes out.
We joined the highway north again. I saw my first flock of emus in the field to my right. The grass was golden and there was 60% sky with huge white clouds. It reminded me of the early American west. There was a huge dust trail made by a massive road train at the roadhouse. Along the roadside there was a plaque dedicated to all women who had had to endure violence. This is one of the visible signs of human communities like the yellow safe needle disposal tubs on the wall of every toilet that I have been into, even in the outback, the lengthy skid marks down the centre of the highways all over Australia, violence help phone lines on the doors in ladies toilets and the gambling warnings in every tote bar. You see no evidence of these but they are obviously issues. There were more fields of sugar cane and a huge refinery, providing much-needed employment to one small town. Apparently, in June, when the crops are cut and crushed, a whole network of railways comes to life and they take precedence over road vehicles. Fortunately for us we were a bit too early!
A little further on there was livestock handling one side and a huge mine on the other.
Our next stop was Mission Beach where the small pocket of Cassowarys could sometimes be seen. The site was extremely beautiful, planted with so much colour and shape in fabulous tropical trees and bushes. It had been caught in the cyclone a few years earlier and this had devastated the flora and fauna of the area. It had recovered well. We did not see a cassowary but the notice not to feed themif they appeared on the camp, was wasted on me, since they are like emus with attitude. If it wanted it the bird could have it. I was not going to risk being chased by one of those things.
When we heard on the news that storms were currently battering Noosa Heads and Brisbane and that trees had been blown over in Hervey Bay we were shocked, and a little sad, because it had been wonderfully sunny when we had been there a week or two before.
We left this area with regret.
We set out for the final places on the east coast with great hope. I was going to go out on the reef again but I was told that it was cloudy at Port Douglas because of the recent rain!!!! The town was very manicured but full of pretension. We could not wait to leave and head inland for Alice and Ayers.
On Wednesday 28th May we we relieved to be leaving Bowen. This was a dead town with wide streets and few people. We had done our blogs in the library and then asked for a tourist map. It turned out that this town had been used by Baz Lerhman to film 'Old Darwin' for his epic, 'Australia" film. It was one of the oldest towns and the film-makers had simply covered the streets in red dust. I hope to recognise the pub when the film comes out.
We joined the highway north again. I saw my first flock of emus in the field to my right. The grass was golden and there was 60% sky with huge white clouds. It reminded me of the early American west. There was a huge dust trail made by a massive road train at the roadhouse. Along the roadside there was a plaque dedicated to all women who had had to endure violence. This is one of the visible signs of human communities like the yellow safe needle disposal tubs on the wall of every toilet that I have been into, even in the outback, the lengthy skid marks down the centre of the highways all over Australia, violence help phone lines on the doors in ladies toilets and the gambling warnings in every tote bar. You see no evidence of these but they are obviously issues. There were more fields of sugar cane and a huge refinery, providing much-needed employment to one small town. Apparently, in June, when the crops are cut and crushed, a whole network of railways comes to life and they take precedence over road vehicles. Fortunately for us we were a bit too early!
A little further on there was livestock handling one side and a huge mine on the other.
Our next stop was Mission Beach where the small pocket of Cassowarys could sometimes be seen. The site was extremely beautiful, planted with so much colour and shape in fabulous tropical trees and bushes. It had been caught in the cyclone a few years earlier and this had devastated the flora and fauna of the area. It had recovered well. We did not see a cassowary but the notice not to feed themif they appeared on the camp, was wasted on me, since they are like emus with attitude. If it wanted it the bird could have it. I was not going to risk being chased by one of those things.
When we heard on the news that storms were currently battering Noosa Heads and Brisbane and that trees had been blown over in Hervey Bay we were shocked, and a little sad, because it had been wonderfully sunny when we had been there a week or two before.
We left this area with regret.
We set out for the final places on the east coast with great hope. I was going to go out on the reef again but I was told that it was cloudy at Port Douglas because of the recent rain!!!! The town was very manicured but full of pretension. We could not wait to leave and head inland for Alice and Ayers.
Wednesday, 18 June 2008
The Town of 1770 and the Great Barrier Reef
It was the towns annual festival as we rolled into town. We spent the Friday Night at a Stand-Up Comedy show, the Saturday at a fete and the Sunday, out on the reef.
We got the comedy tickets by default as they had sold out but someone who had been out on the reef that day was feeling sick, so they had cancelled their tickets.It was a good night and I was relieved to find that there were no pom-bashing jokes. I spoke to a wonderful lady who had grown up on a ranch and had very little schooling because she was out rounding-up cows, mending fences and cooking meals for the ranch hands and shearers. We got home at 12pm on the shuttle, tired but happy.
The next day we left camp at 11am and headed for the field where we were to get the shuttle to the foreshore. There were rides and stalls. We found seats by a performance area and watched the belly dancers and some local musicians. I watched the 'Young Endeavour' sailors come ashore. They had crewed this replica ship around part of Australia's coastline under the guidance of the Australian Navy. It was now time to change crew. It was coincidental that they were there but very apt as this was a celebration of the year when Captain Cook had first landed in 1770 in his ship, The Endeavour. I took a ride on The Lark, a converted ex-army amphibious vessel that took us out across the sandbars in the bay, where we saw soldier crabs marching along a sandbar, and lots of local seabirds. The Lark was a boat in water and a vehicle on land. It took us a bit closer to the Young Endeavour, given by the English government to the Australian government. The local school children had acted out the landing too. It was a very enjoyable day in the sunshine.
Sunday saw us walking to the harbour at 7am in order to catch the boat that was taking us to the reef. Lee had noticed a flat tyre when we got up but there was nothing we could do about it until the next day. I just hoped that it would not spoil the experience.
It was a choppy 90 minute ride to the reef. We had taken Kwells so we were okay but it was a rough ride! We were glad to step on to the pontoon where we could have a ride to the island, a ride in a semi-submercible boat to view under the waves, snorkel on the reef or have a diving lesson.
The island was lying in azure, clear seas. We took the glass bottomed boat and turtles were coming up for air around us. Amazing! I took lots of photographs. It was possible to stay on the island overnight but I had not realised this, and we did not have a tent. It was a real desert island. That would have been something!I took pictures of the white beach, bleached driftwood and coral that created so many different patterns.
When we got back we had lunch. Lee went in the sub and I got ready to snorkel. It was wonderful to tip forward and view through the goggles for the first time. I went cross eyed when a humbug fish swam before my eyes and said, "Wow!" as the scene unfolded before my eyes. This, of course, filled my mouth with salt water! I spent some time just getting used to the scene, the flippers and working out what to do with my redundant hands. What an amazing experience. I did not see any nasties and stayed where the water was deepest to get a clear view. I was surprised to get so cold in these beautiful, pristine waters though.The breathing was surprisingly easy. I was elated as I swam back to the ship.
At 2pm we went on the last trip in the sub. Again we saw the rather endearing turtles. It was the perfect end to a fabulous day.
On the Monday morning we had to sort out the punctured tyre. After a futile effort the lady next door opened her bonnet, connected the lead and blew our tyre up with the charger in her 4x4 engine!!! She even offerred to follow us to the tyre place to make sure that we made it. By 10.15 it had been done and we were merrily on our way up the coast. A wedge tailed eagle lifted on the wind effortlessly and the sun shone. The roadsign said, 'Cairns 1,222 kms: Townsville 860 kms.I sat back as we were in for a long journey! I pondered the stories told to me by two different, 'Grey Nomads' of their unfortunate dogs.
One dog, part Dingo, had caught around 30 snakes!! I remarked that he must have been swift, to which the lady replied,"Aw no. He's been caught a couple of times. Had to take him to the vets for the anti-venom.I asked how she knew that he had been bitten by a snake and she told me that the back legs stop working! I asked, "Was he okay afterwards?"
She replied,"Aw yeah but he's recovering from a scuffle with a kangaroo. Had his thigh ripped open. Cost us $300." He must be a tough cookie.
The other story involved an older lady, now travelling with her remaining, little dog. Some time the previous year her husband had been cutting the overgrown grass on the plot next to them, that was up for sale, and he had remarked about seeing a brown snake, the dangerous ones!! The next day her elderly dog had gone out into the grass, for a wee, and was never seen again! Tough life!!!!
We got the comedy tickets by default as they had sold out but someone who had been out on the reef that day was feeling sick, so they had cancelled their tickets.It was a good night and I was relieved to find that there were no pom-bashing jokes. I spoke to a wonderful lady who had grown up on a ranch and had very little schooling because she was out rounding-up cows, mending fences and cooking meals for the ranch hands and shearers. We got home at 12pm on the shuttle, tired but happy.
The next day we left camp at 11am and headed for the field where we were to get the shuttle to the foreshore. There were rides and stalls. We found seats by a performance area and watched the belly dancers and some local musicians. I watched the 'Young Endeavour' sailors come ashore. They had crewed this replica ship around part of Australia's coastline under the guidance of the Australian Navy. It was now time to change crew. It was coincidental that they were there but very apt as this was a celebration of the year when Captain Cook had first landed in 1770 in his ship, The Endeavour. I took a ride on The Lark, a converted ex-army amphibious vessel that took us out across the sandbars in the bay, where we saw soldier crabs marching along a sandbar, and lots of local seabirds. The Lark was a boat in water and a vehicle on land. It took us a bit closer to the Young Endeavour, given by the English government to the Australian government. The local school children had acted out the landing too. It was a very enjoyable day in the sunshine.
Sunday saw us walking to the harbour at 7am in order to catch the boat that was taking us to the reef. Lee had noticed a flat tyre when we got up but there was nothing we could do about it until the next day. I just hoped that it would not spoil the experience.
It was a choppy 90 minute ride to the reef. We had taken Kwells so we were okay but it was a rough ride! We were glad to step on to the pontoon where we could have a ride to the island, a ride in a semi-submercible boat to view under the waves, snorkel on the reef or have a diving lesson.
The island was lying in azure, clear seas. We took the glass bottomed boat and turtles were coming up for air around us. Amazing! I took lots of photographs. It was possible to stay on the island overnight but I had not realised this, and we did not have a tent. It was a real desert island. That would have been something!I took pictures of the white beach, bleached driftwood and coral that created so many different patterns.
When we got back we had lunch. Lee went in the sub and I got ready to snorkel. It was wonderful to tip forward and view through the goggles for the first time. I went cross eyed when a humbug fish swam before my eyes and said, "Wow!" as the scene unfolded before my eyes. This, of course, filled my mouth with salt water! I spent some time just getting used to the scene, the flippers and working out what to do with my redundant hands. What an amazing experience. I did not see any nasties and stayed where the water was deepest to get a clear view. I was surprised to get so cold in these beautiful, pristine waters though.The breathing was surprisingly easy. I was elated as I swam back to the ship.
At 2pm we went on the last trip in the sub. Again we saw the rather endearing turtles. It was the perfect end to a fabulous day.
On the Monday morning we had to sort out the punctured tyre. After a futile effort the lady next door opened her bonnet, connected the lead and blew our tyre up with the charger in her 4x4 engine!!! She even offerred to follow us to the tyre place to make sure that we made it. By 10.15 it had been done and we were merrily on our way up the coast. A wedge tailed eagle lifted on the wind effortlessly and the sun shone. The roadsign said, 'Cairns 1,222 kms: Townsville 860 kms.I sat back as we were in for a long journey! I pondered the stories told to me by two different, 'Grey Nomads' of their unfortunate dogs.
One dog, part Dingo, had caught around 30 snakes!! I remarked that he must have been swift, to which the lady replied,"Aw no. He's been caught a couple of times. Had to take him to the vets for the anti-venom.I asked how she knew that he had been bitten by a snake and she told me that the back legs stop working! I asked, "Was he okay afterwards?"
She replied,"Aw yeah but he's recovering from a scuffle with a kangaroo. Had his thigh ripped open. Cost us $300." He must be a tough cookie.
The other story involved an older lady, now travelling with her remaining, little dog. Some time the previous year her husband had been cutting the overgrown grass on the plot next to them, that was up for sale, and he had remarked about seeing a brown snake, the dangerous ones!! The next day her elderly dog had gone out into the grass, for a wee, and was never seen again! Tough life!!!!
Monday, 9 June 2008
The fifth State-entering Queensland
By May 22nd we were back on the coast. Oranges were for sale and the Mount Warning National Park was unfolding its scenery before our eyes. We were near the border into Queensland, our fifth state.We had looked at the fabulous beach at Coolangatta and taken pictures at the Captain Cook Memorial before heading up the Sunshine Coast to Rainbow Bay. We spent the evening in a bar where the National Rugby Competition, The State of Origin, ( You had to be born in the State to represent it,) was about to begin. It was Queensland versus Southern Australia. We suddenly realised that Lee was inadvertantly wearing the opposing teams colours!!!! We left after our awful meal, without establishing eye-contact! The next morning we parked up and strolled along the beach to view the famous cliffs before we headed out, but I could not see the rainbow colours because of the green vegetation. However, I did notice the oil on the sand that had been churned up by the 4x4's that are allowed to drive along the beach to the next bay. It was a shame.
We left and headed for Tin Can Bay via Snapper Creek. We were passed by a true Aussie with a tinnie on the roof of his 4x4, towing a caravan with some witty phrase on the back, "Been there, done that!" Another version of this is the Aussie in his Holden Ute with a devoted, rough looking dog riding in the back, tied on by a bit of thick rope. Little dogs travel on the passenger seat but jump out of the partially opened window to join their owners at the pub!
Tin Can Bay was a delightful, clean, small town with a harbour and open sea. The local IGA, 'Independant Grocers Association' was the hub of activity. Locals greeted each other and a little communal hall stood proudly on the other side of the road. We had to turn around as the road was a dead end but we were pleased to have seen this delightful little place. We headed for Maryborough, 58kms further up the coast.
This proved to be a delight in a different way. It was the town that the author of Mary Poppins, P.L. Travers, had been born in. There was a statue of Mary Poppins outside the bank where Traver's father had been the manager. There were buildings from around the 1900's too. It was their festival that weekend but we were moving on.
Thursday saw us in Hervey Bay. We had a pitch over-looking the beach but it had been too cold to sit out on Thursday, when we arrived. It got worse on Friday as the sky was grey and it was raining and the van would not start! Two German girls and the elderly man next door gave us a push. Nothing! The man towed Lee out on to the road and we were off again! The girls had abandoned their car and given away the contents at the hostel because their car repair had been too expensive!!!!I felt tense but began to relax as we moved along in our usual routine. We were now in sugar cane country with field after field of 10ft canes, a huge refinery and rail-tracks everywhere, ready for the crushing seasdon which would begin in June. We stopped for breakfast in the next town called Childers. It was basically a high-street. The local pub had a statue of two bronze dogs involved in a fight!!! Lee found a place that he was prepared to eat in, called, 'The Sugar Bush", but we were too late for breakfast as it was now 11 am and breakfasts stopped at 10!!! The lady agreed to do us a breakfast and we ate it with relish; the mountains of bacon, egg and toast, it was divine, before moving on to pick up groceries at Woolies.
Along the roadside there were signs advertising custard apples,mangoes and pineapples. We also noticed a wacky postbox at the end of a drive. It was a table with a chair. The microwave on the table was the postbox. Don't ask me!
Our next port-of-call was the wonderful Town of 1770 and Agnes, where we were going to go out on the reef.
We left and headed for Tin Can Bay via Snapper Creek. We were passed by a true Aussie with a tinnie on the roof of his 4x4, towing a caravan with some witty phrase on the back, "Been there, done that!" Another version of this is the Aussie in his Holden Ute with a devoted, rough looking dog riding in the back, tied on by a bit of thick rope. Little dogs travel on the passenger seat but jump out of the partially opened window to join their owners at the pub!
Tin Can Bay was a delightful, clean, small town with a harbour and open sea. The local IGA, 'Independant Grocers Association' was the hub of activity. Locals greeted each other and a little communal hall stood proudly on the other side of the road. We had to turn around as the road was a dead end but we were pleased to have seen this delightful little place. We headed for Maryborough, 58kms further up the coast.
This proved to be a delight in a different way. It was the town that the author of Mary Poppins, P.L. Travers, had been born in. There was a statue of Mary Poppins outside the bank where Traver's father had been the manager. There were buildings from around the 1900's too. It was their festival that weekend but we were moving on.
Thursday saw us in Hervey Bay. We had a pitch over-looking the beach but it had been too cold to sit out on Thursday, when we arrived. It got worse on Friday as the sky was grey and it was raining and the van would not start! Two German girls and the elderly man next door gave us a push. Nothing! The man towed Lee out on to the road and we were off again! The girls had abandoned their car and given away the contents at the hostel because their car repair had been too expensive!!!!I felt tense but began to relax as we moved along in our usual routine. We were now in sugar cane country with field after field of 10ft canes, a huge refinery and rail-tracks everywhere, ready for the crushing seasdon which would begin in June. We stopped for breakfast in the next town called Childers. It was basically a high-street. The local pub had a statue of two bronze dogs involved in a fight!!! Lee found a place that he was prepared to eat in, called, 'The Sugar Bush", but we were too late for breakfast as it was now 11 am and breakfasts stopped at 10!!! The lady agreed to do us a breakfast and we ate it with relish; the mountains of bacon, egg and toast, it was divine, before moving on to pick up groceries at Woolies.
Along the roadside there were signs advertising custard apples,mangoes and pineapples. We also noticed a wacky postbox at the end of a drive. It was a table with a chair. The microwave on the table was the postbox. Don't ask me!
Our next port-of-call was the wonderful Town of 1770 and Agnes, where we were going to go out on the reef.
Tuesday, 3 June 2008
On the road surprises-The journey up to Brisbane
It was Monday the 12th May and we were moving up the coast to leave New South Wales behind and heading for Queensland. We had stayed overnight in a camp called Sundowner Park and Football Motel, of which I have no recollection, unless it had a lake and painted toilets and chalets??
We passed through Fredericktown and I suddenly realised that we had passed Freddo Pies, with a Marilyn Munro statue outside. We quickly pulled in and purchased one each, for luch. Pie eating is one of the, 'How Australian Are You? tests. These pies have been voted consistently in the top three for a few years, so they were worth treying. I had Broccili, Cauliflower and cheese. Lee had Steak and Mushroom. There were gormet versions but we were staid in our choices. They were good. I even got a picture of Lee beside Marilyn, but not until he had eaten his pie!
The next port of call was, 'The Pub With No Beer", at Taylor's Arm, some 25 kilometers off our track, from Slim Dusty's 1957 hit. My aunt had a copy of this that I used to sing along with so I had to go and have a picture taken for her. I am glad to report that they did have beer but it tasted bloody awful! We continued on our way. At the Nambucca River there was a magnificent flight of about 20 pelicans overhead in 'v' formation.
One thing that is really strange is the dearth of English place names all piled up on each other in the wrong place. We passed through Swansea, Newcastle, Jesmond, Gateshead and left to Cardiff! No wonder I don't know what day of the week it is!!!
Coffs Harbour had a neat, small park with lots of live-ins, but at $25 we were not complaining. At the entrance there was a Dutch clog-barn. Why? I do not know. It was possible to watch clogs being made, daily. We stayed one night and had a look at Coffs Harbour as we left. It was a wonderfully sunny day and the beach and Harbour were a delight. I really enjoyed strolling around in the sunshine. It was clean and tidy, you could buy freshly caught fish then cook it in the adjoining parkland on the barbies. In Australia everything is provided for outdoor living: superb cycle paths along promenades, picnic benches, seating, shaded areas, toilets, plently of parking space and no charges! I was sad to leave but we were heading for Byron Bay.
Teach your Aussie...
Beautification=clean up to attract the tourists
oppy/oppo=charity shop
sqiz=a quick look
arvo=pm.
Chick poo/Alpaca poo=manure
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